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The i-Wood diamond plates. Anyone used them? (4 replies)

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http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=335_462_463&products_id=852
Found this wandering Tools from japan and wondered if anyone had used this brand? I like diamond plates for a grab and go sharpener and 150 grit would be interesting to use other then the EZ-lap brand which I have small sanding sticks of.

So anyone tried these or know someone that has? Also they offer ceramic diamond stones from this brand which would be fun to play with in the 1000, 3000,6000, and 12000 grit range.

Shapton pro 2k vs Spyderco fine (5 replies)

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Hello,
I was going to get a translucent arky, but way to expensive. Im thinking of going Spyderco fine bench stone or getting a Shapton pro 2k. Which stone refines stone more?

Craftsman 6"x2"x3/4" Combination Stone (no replies)

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This stone was for sale at Sears for $8.99 USD. It appears to be SiC, although the website info has it listed as AlO:

[www.sears.com]

The difference is that this stone is two shades of dark grey, while the stone on the website and described in the packaging is brown and light grey.
The stone came relatively flat, with no noticeable dishing or crowning. It shed grit under use, like a Norton Crystolon SiC hone, which is a light to moderate amount. I sharpened my Wahoo Killer, whose hollow grind had been worn away by repeated sharpenings, after cutting off the edge of the knife. The stone wasn't loaded with oil, and was quite thirsty. I would recommend and overnight oil soak. Cutting and feel seemed to mirror a Norton 6" Economy Stone (SiC) or Norton Crystolon (SiC) Stone, as it was quick and crisp. The edge it left was rather ragged, as it would push cut phonebook paper x-grain on a 3*90, but was patchy when it came to shaving arm hair. A few passes on a Forschner 12" Combination Round Steel and the blade shaved evenly, and was close to hair popping or tree topping sharpness.
Overall, a nice stone, with a ready to use surface for under $10USD at a nice size for most knives.

King 220/1000 (from C) (1 reply)

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C Amber sent me a King 220/1000 grit, double sided stone. A truly nice gift and my first ever King stone!

Thank you C!!! :)-D:)-D:)-D

As soon as I got the King out of the box, I got it wet and tried sharpening my Leatherman Crater. From destressed edge to hair shaving sharp in... about 2 minutes? Maybe 3? Fast for me. I am excited to put this stone to some serious use (by my standards, not Cliff Stamp standards of serious use.)

Interestingly enough, Chad has been kind enough to ship off a pair of knives to me. As part of the deal I am to carry both of these knives for one year, and I am to do a comparative review of these knives at the end of said year. I think I am going to turn this into a threeway. I will be carrying both of Chad's knives for a year, and I think I will just use this King stone from C Amber to sharpen these two knives. I will include this King stone in my review.

If I should, or should not, be doing anything to better this upcoming review, I would appreciate any suggestions anyone here may have.

Thank you again C. I really appreciate this.

Balsa wood strop with crox powder (1 reply)

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Hi,
I need some info on how to adhere crox powder to balsa wood. I read that one needs to use mineral oil. What is the ratio of oil to crox powder? Also i know that balsa wood comes in different densities soft, medium, and hard. Which would be the best density for straight razors?

Spyderco fine stone (1 reply)

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Hello,
I have a Shapton pro 2k, and im thinking of getting a Spyderco fine ceramic? My question is a Spyderco fine ceramic more finer in grit than my Shapton 2k?

Difficulty Sharpening X-Acto/Scalpel/Single Edge Razor/Utility Blades (16 replies)

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On some of these X-Acto/Scalpel/Single Edge Razor/Utility Blades, especially the stainless, getting and edge apex to form cleanly can be difficult. Either the edge won't form at all, or it just forms a burr. The best way I have found to sharpen these blades is the 3-step/Platuea method, using a King 1k, Suehiro 1k/3k/ (3k side), Norton 4k/8k, and then apexing/mircobeveling either with a Spyderco Medium or UF stone, or a DMT XF or XXF.

Wüsthof J400/J2000 - combination whetstone (no replies)


NEW! (tu)Suehiro Dual-Stone (7 replies)

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Just noticed these on Tools From Japan website, interesting offering for japanese style sharpening stones...

"These Dual-Stones from Suehiro manage to straddle between the two extremes of fast cutting 'waterstones' and dish resistant/low maintenance 'oilstones', offering both exceptionally strong resistance to dishing along with faster cutting and ability to work effectively with all blade steels (carbon, stainless, high speed and powder metal steels) and ceramics.

By taking the essential ingredients of a standard ceramic waterstone and 'compressing' it to reduce it's porosity, the density of the stone is significantly increased without sacrificing the ability of the stone to work with even the hardest blade steels. This increase in density also means that the stone will not wear at the same rate as the conventional stone it is based on, explaining the strong dish resistance, but at the sacrifice of outright speed.

The specified 'grit' number of these stones is correct, but the way these stones behave means that the grit number does not match how they work, as the abrasive is thoroughly used and will deliver a polish and edge equivalent to a to a much finer stone. As an example, the #1000 grit Dual Stone will deliver and edge equivalent to a stone in the #3000-5000 range, if the stone is allowed to work thoroughly.

Perhaps the most unique aspect of these stones is related to their name, "Dual Stone" as this relates not only to how they behave, but that they can be used with water or oil as a carrier for swarf. Almost any oil can be used if desired, so long as it is a 'non drying' oil that will remain fluid. If using these stones with oil, it is recommend an edible oil such as camelia oil or a low viscosity cooking oil for food cutting blades, and a light machine or mineral oil as an alternative or for blades that will not be in contact with food, or of course plain, clear water and only a small amount of whichever fluid needs to be applied to the stone prior to use, with the excess removed once finished.

These stones do not require any special care, being tolerant of most household chemicals, heat and cold as well as permanent immersion in water, although these stones naturally do not require soaking at all.

Also included in this range of stones are several diamond plates which are of course compatible with the stones, and can be used to quickly correct edges or to clean and condition the stones.

Lightweight, compact, low maintenance, durable and long lasting, these stones are something new, unique and attractive for those who require a compact sharpening kit or are looking for a stone that will be effective on blades that oilstones struggle with but without the mess of a conventional water type stone."

[www.toolsfromjapan.com]

Far Fetched Theories (2 replies)

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This is a thread from the Big Forum:

[www.bladeforums.com]

I find it funny how everyone suggests issues that don't happen that often, engage in pseudo-scientific discussions that are nothing short of pedantic (something they also often accuse people of in discussion, speaking in general, of course), while the two simple answers are not given, just one that's close, but demeaning someone's sharpening skills isn't really helpful, like saying the blade didn't get apexed or they have a burr or they rounded the edge by polishing. The other simple answer that is not given at all after three pages of comments is that the edge was damaged during factory or some other type of power-sharpening, the questions needed to find out aren't even asked.

Intentionally Convexed Belgian Yellow Coticule (no replies)

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The seems like an interesting idea:

[www.youtube.com]

I wonder what finishing a knife on one would be like? Like sharpening on a rod sharpener?

Unusual sharpening stones, the tile rubbing stone. (5 replies)

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I was shopping recently at the hardware store when I spotted a tile rubbing stone of 60/80 grit so I picked it up.

Thus far I am pleased; very hard, coarse, but not as aggressive as you would think. So I am guessing it is some type of aluminum oxide abrasive. I can still easily get arm hair shaving sharp off the 60 grit side.
Gonna see if it can be used as a dressing stone on my coarse aluminum oxide and silicon carbide stones which are around 100 grit.
My TASK stone works on the fine stones but not as well on the coarse ones.

Dan's Whetstone 6" x 3" Primitive Black Arkansas (3 replies)

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On Badger&Blade, I saw this post:
[www.badgerandblade.com]

Which led me to contact Dan's Whetstone, and I ended up ordering a 6" x 3" Primitive Black Arkansas stone for $22.50.
The primitive stones are only finished on one side and most of the surfaces are uneven. It's like a koppa or bout stone.

The stone should arrive early next week.

The Washita Stone Confusion (no replies)

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In several new YouTube videos, people have acquired vintage Washita stones and have given the modern description of the stone, i.e. that it is coarser that the Soft Arkansas. This may be true for some stones marketed as Washita stone in today's market, but the fact is those stones are most likely Soft Arkansas stone that are on the coarse side. The Washita stone is its own type of stone, just like a closely related Arkansas stone or other natural stone. Like the Arkansas stone, the Washita stone comes in different densities, grit grades and cosmetic grades. Originally, before the modern grading system for Arkansas stone which is complex, the old grading system divided Arkansas stones into two grades: Hard and Soft. The Hard stones were the fine stones(est. 4k-8k+ JIS*) , and the Soft(est. 600-2k*)t were the coarse stones. Washita stones were graded in the exact same way (with some additional grades for cosmetic issues, as the Washita stones are more prone to inclusions than Arkansas stones) for the exact same reason, as the stones can vary form coarse (est 400 to 2k JIS*) to very fine (2k-4k JIS*). For example, the Pike/Norton Lily White came in Hard or Soft, and the same with the No 1 and No 2, along with their Rosy Red stone. So you can have a Washita stone that is almost as fine as a Surgical Black or Translucent Arkansas (using today's grading system) all the way through down to being more coarse than a Soft Arkansas (again, using today's methods).




Sources:

United States Geological Survey
[books.google.com]

Annual Report of Geological Survey of Arkansas
[books.google.com]

Mineral Resources of the United States
[books.google.com]




*Natural stones don't actually have a grit rating, but you can estimate how coarse or fine they are by comparing them to known synthetic stones

Getting the Old Style Benchmade Clip Look (no replies)

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I am trying out doing videos on my Chromebook, since before I only had a smartphone or tablet. It is tricky to do a YouTube video on a Chromebook since YouTube changed how you can upload videos, but there is a Chrome Browser Extension called Screencastify that allows you to make YouTube videos. I hope it is easier to watch than the other videos i have made. Making your own videos really shows how much we take for granted all the great channels out there, plus the work and resources that make it happen.

Anyway, this video talks about taking a stainless or painted pocket clip and getting it that old style blued look:

[youtu.be]

You Can't Buy Sharpening (2 replies)

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Reid Henrichs
You Can Not Buy Marksmanship
[youtu.be]

I know this YouTube is about firearms, but the same thing is true with knife sharpening. Some systems can get you close, but if you don't have an understanding and the skills of putting an edge on a knife, you are not going to get the results that you would otherwise be able to. For example, I had all sorts of sharpening euiptment, (Gatco Edgemate, Lansky Crocksticks, diamond plates, Soft Arkansas stones, AlO bencnstones) and I couldn't get past keeping a knife sharp or putting a working edge on a completely dull knife. Once I understood the different types of stone and grits, and how to apex and deburr the blade, I was able to get a shaving sharp edge that could push cut newsprint. I couldn't do that, no matter what I purchased. Wayne Goddard's article from his book, Jon Juranich's book, Murray Carter's YouTube videos, Leonard Lee's book, and Cliff Stamp's YouTube on the Three Step Method are responsible for me being able to sharpen a knife.

Sandvik set of sharpening stones (3 replies)

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A couple of new sharpening stones - branded by "Sandvik" or nowadays "Bahco" corporation.


full size: [media.snimka.bg]

left - synthetic, ceramic, corundum (Al2O3) 120/400 grit
right - natural from Lombardy/Bergamo/Italy - 700 grit

Tyrolit silicon carbide / carborundum and aluminum oxide / corundum 150/320 grit sharpening stones (no replies)

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One manufacturer

same size
same grits
same type of bonding
similar hardness
similar porosity

but

different abrasive particles - silicon carbide / carborundum and aluminum oxide / corundum




it will be interesting comparison for me in the future to sharpen different steels on the two stones and see how they perform...




3k & 10K Ruby/Beryl Combination Stone (no replies)

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This just came in the mail:

[www.ebay.com]

It is almost 4" long at 3 7/8" (100mm) and it is 7/8" wide (24mm) in 3/8" (10mm) thick. The stone cuts nicely, apexing a knife edge on the 3k side(red) in about 60PPS. The green (10k) side was also a good cutter. The grit rating is accurate, with the 3k side leaving a nice polish and the 10K side leaving a mirrored polish. Under 60x, the 3k looked 3k, and the 10k side looked to be 8k-10k. The stone came well finished and very flat, with the cutting surface smooth to the touch. The price (including shipping) was less than $6 USD. The stone is very hard and would be great for microbeveling and finishing passes with either side depending on the finish desired. Some stone that you could compare this to is a Hard/Black Ark Combo Pocket stone or a Spyderco Double Stuff. Not sure if the material to make the stone is natural or synthetic, it is only described as 3k Ruby and 10k Beryl. Great stone, especially considering the price. There is also a variant with a white 10k side, I might give that a try also. If you like combination stones (like I do, pocket stone (like I do) , high grit stones (like I do), and stones with a value price (like I do) you will like this stone a lot.

edit:
it came from China, so the shipping time was 2-3 weeks.

Smiths AC167 6"x1 1/2" White Ceramic Benchstone (3 replies)

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About six months ago I picked up this stone:
[www.ebay.com]

It was about $7 shipped. Estimated grit is 6k-8k (JIS). it cam flat and well finished, with some swirling shown in the swarf when used. The stone is one sided, and the other side has a wide lattice work and is basically hollowed out. This makes stone loading/swarf build-up even a bigger issue than usual with these types of stones. Swarf buildup is high if used dry, less with water, water and dishsoap, and even less with honing oil. The stone is quick cutting, and doesn't seem to be sensitive to the steel it is cutting. Finish is very fine, leaving a mirrored finish. it is not as fine as a Spyderco UF hone or my Dan's Black Ark, but not a lot of things are.
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