I have a DMT aligner pro kit on the way. I previously used DMT dry. Any suggestions on lubricant? Or was i doing it right before?
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Water, Oil, or Dry for DMT Stones (7 replies)
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Best or Favorite Polishing Stones (no replies)
Which sharpening stones do you have leave the finish you like the best, visually? I tend to favor shiny, mirror like edges, so the stones I own that are capable of getting vlose to that are:
Norton 4k/8k (8k side), Steelex 1k/6k (6k side), Suehiro 1k/3k (3k side), Translucent and Surgical Black Arkansas, Norton Washita, Spyderco UF, and Belgium Coticule.
Norton 4k/8k (8k side), Steelex 1k/6k (6k side), Suehiro 1k/3k (3k side), Translucent and Surgical Black Arkansas, Norton Washita, Spyderco UF, and Belgium Coticule.
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MTECH MT 20-30 (6 replies)
I've been looking to try carrying a small fixed blade but wasn't sure if it would work for me. Decided to order one of these for $14 so I could try it out before I bought a more serious blade. 4.75" OAL 2" blade 440 something steel.
![]()
It came with a pretty ludicrous edge angle (~20dps) and a hollow grind. After a bit of work thinning it out on the Atoma 400x and 1200x I was able to flatten out the hollow and get down to ~10dps flat grind. Used the SPSII 240x and 1000x to put a new edge on it and the the Sharpmaker rods at 15DPS for a micro bevel. Ended up with this:
![]()
It will now push cut phone book paper both with and across the grain at 90 degrees. I don't imagine the steel will hold an edge all that well but I'm going to carry it for a week and see. The sheath does not seem to dull the edge.
![]()
It came with a pretty ludicrous edge angle (~20dps) and a hollow grind. After a bit of work thinning it out on the Atoma 400x and 1200x I was able to flatten out the hollow and get down to ~10dps flat grind. Used the SPSII 240x and 1000x to put a new edge on it and the the Sharpmaker rods at 15DPS for a micro bevel. Ended up with this:
It will now push cut phone book paper both with and across the grain at 90 degrees. I don't imagine the steel will hold an edge all that well but I'm going to carry it for a week and see. The sheath does not seem to dull the edge.
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Mora regrind questions (5 replies)
Just wondering if this makes sense.
Other than the work involved is there a reason not to take a Mora Bushcraft black and grind both bevels down flat? Also, is the Carbon steel they use generally known or assumed to be 1095?
Mora
Other than the work involved is there a reason not to take a Mora Bushcraft black and grind both bevels down flat? Also, is the Carbon steel they use generally known or assumed to be 1095?
Mora
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New Naniwa Stones (no replies)
Hey guys,
I was wondering if anyone has used the newer Naniwa stones along side the old Super Stones. I've been trying to find some information on the differences between the two if there are any. I haven't found too much information at all, and none that seems very substantive. At this point I'm thinking that it's basically just a renaming and repackaging of the same stones. The vendors even simply say "new super stones." My hope is that if they actually are different, it's not enough to make the stones work in a different way than they used to.
I was wondering if anyone has used the newer Naniwa stones along side the old Super Stones. I've been trying to find some information on the differences between the two if there are any. I haven't found too much information at all, and none that seems very substantive. At this point I'm thinking that it's basically just a renaming and repackaging of the same stones. The vendors even simply say "new super stones." My hope is that if they actually are different, it's not enough to make the stones work in a different way than they used to.
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Knife Planet: Peter Nolan Sharpening Troubleshooting (1 reply)
While I have been sharpening knives since I was a kid, results were hit and miss until a few years ago. I had accumulated all sorts of sharpening stones, angle guides, clamps, Crock-Sticks, diamond plates, ect. over the years, followed the instructions, read knife magazine sharpening articles, watched videos. Still, my results were not consistent. All that needed to be done was a little troubleshooting with my technique. Here is an article by Peter Nolan on doing just that:
[www.knifeplanet.net]
Now, while it is limited by his views (some reasonable, some questionable), I do think that troubleshooting in sharpening tutorials is important for new and old sharpeners alike.
(Edited for content and spelling)
[www.knifeplanet.net]
Now, while it is limited by his views (some reasonable, some questionable), I do think that troubleshooting in sharpening tutorials is important for new and old sharpeners alike.
(Edited for content and spelling)
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Lessons Learned From Spyderco Tenacious (4 replies)
A few weeks ago, I cut my hand testing the lock on my Spyderco Tenacious:
[imgur.com]
The lock had been solid and it didn't fail when tested when I first got the knife (second hand from a member of Knife Knation on Facebook), but after I had disassembled the knife to inspect, clean, lubricate and possibly smooth, speed, and tune up the action by polishing the washers. Problem is that when I put the knife back together, the liner lock would fail the spine whack test. I decided not to do anything, since I got the knife second hand and had taken it apart, plus Spyderco's Forum isn't exactly a friendly place for anything less than glowing remarks:
[www.spyderco.com]
[www.bladeforums.com]
So I wanted to see how big of a deal a iffy lock on a EDC knife is, so I carried it daily, along with a Gerber EAB for a control knife. No problems, then I saw a YouTube video explaining that if you lubricate the ball detent, you can smooth up the action. Instead of taking the knife apart (I didn't feel like messing with the lanyard it came with), I just poured some mineral oil/canola oil mix on the detent. So, as expected, two things happened:
1) The knife's action was greatly improved and very smooth;
2) The knife's pivot and action became dirty and gunked up because of too much oil.
That inspired me to clean the knife up again by doing a partial disassembly. The pivot, left and right scale screws were removed. What was found was very interesting. The lock side washer was banged up on the outer edge. Apparently I had put the washers in wrong when I put the knife together the last time. So I cleaned, lubed, and polished up the washers to fix the damage, and when I put the knife together, no more lock failure!
I read once that is the reason Benchmade used Torx head screws, to prevent easy disassembly by the user/owner.
,
[imgur.com]
The lock had been solid and it didn't fail when tested when I first got the knife (second hand from a member of Knife Knation on Facebook), but after I had disassembled the knife to inspect, clean, lubricate and possibly smooth, speed, and tune up the action by polishing the washers. Problem is that when I put the knife back together, the liner lock would fail the spine whack test. I decided not to do anything, since I got the knife second hand and had taken it apart, plus Spyderco's Forum isn't exactly a friendly place for anything less than glowing remarks:
[www.spyderco.com]
[www.bladeforums.com]
So I wanted to see how big of a deal a iffy lock on a EDC knife is, so I carried it daily, along with a Gerber EAB for a control knife. No problems, then I saw a YouTube video explaining that if you lubricate the ball detent, you can smooth up the action. Instead of taking the knife apart (I didn't feel like messing with the lanyard it came with), I just poured some mineral oil/canola oil mix on the detent. So, as expected, two things happened:
1) The knife's action was greatly improved and very smooth;
2) The knife's pivot and action became dirty and gunked up because of too much oil.
That inspired me to clean the knife up again by doing a partial disassembly. The pivot, left and right scale screws were removed. What was found was very interesting. The lock side washer was banged up on the outer edge. Apparently I had put the washers in wrong when I put the knife together the last time. So I cleaned, lubed, and polished up the washers to fix the damage, and when I put the knife together, no more lock failure!
I read once that is the reason Benchmade used Torx head screws, to prevent easy disassembly by the user/owner.
,
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Getting a mirror polished edge, but my way, and doesnt loose slicing aggression (no replies)
Since starting my sharpening on the side business I've had one issue. People want mirror edges, now I can do this and push cutting wise it is sharp but has no slicing aggression. Now after a little experiment I think I found a way to get good slicing aggression, and still keep the mirror all the way to the apex.
The way I do it now is set the edge on a 100 grit stone, then work up on a King 1k/6k stone, then a Shapton 12k stone. I follow this with stropping on red then green pasted strops. Now I finish by doing a micro bevel with a spyderco uf ceramic.
Anyone see any problems I can't think of by doing this?
Also I am currently seeing what the removing of the micro bevel by going back to the edge bevel angle with the spyderco uf does exactly in terms of polish on different steels.
(Currently on heavy pain killers please excuse bad grammar and typos.)
The way I do it now is set the edge on a 100 grit stone, then work up on a King 1k/6k stone, then a Shapton 12k stone. I follow this with stropping on red then green pasted strops. Now I finish by doing a micro bevel with a spyderco uf ceramic.
Anyone see any problems I can't think of by doing this?
Also I am currently seeing what the removing of the micro bevel by going back to the edge bevel angle with the spyderco uf does exactly in terms of polish on different steels.
(Currently on heavy pain killers please excuse bad grammar and typos.)
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Knives and Sharpening for Non-Knife-People and Children (2 replies)
Over the last few years, I have come across the same few issues when sharpening knives for family and members of my community: The knifes are used on stone/granite counter-tops, ceramic plates, thrown in drawers and the dishwasher. They are also used but children helping and learning to cook. So I have tried a few things, as a high sharpness edge won't last, and can be dangerous to young children who have short attention spans and fine motor skills that are not fully developed. So, what I found ideally, is to get new knives that are more appropriate for these conditions, namely serrated chefs, utility, cheese/tomato/paring knives with a rounded tip. Victorinox makes excellent versions of these, so does Henkels, and other brands:
Victorinox 10" Serrated Chefs Knife:
[www.webstaurantstore.com]
Victorinox 7.5" Serrated Chefs Knife:
[www.webstaurantstore.com]
Victorinox 5" Serrated Chefs Knife:
[www.webstaurantstore.com]
Victorinox 4" Serrated Round Tip Utility Knife:
[www.webstaurantstore.com]
What I have ended up doing if new knives aren't acquired is modifying their current kitchen knives. I thin the blades with a relief grind as much as I can, then plateau sharpen with a coarse (45 mircon) finish, and steel the edge, so it will be durable. I round and blunt the tips of the knives used by children.
The use of Santoku style knifes in all sizes is good also, as it has most of the desired qualities.
I suggest to the owners to steel their knives and show them how to, to keep them in good shape. If the owners of the knives don't own a steel, I show them how to use the back of another knife to keep the blades in working order. When the knives need resharpening, that's where I come in.
Victorinox 10" Serrated Chefs Knife:
[www.webstaurantstore.com]
Victorinox 7.5" Serrated Chefs Knife:
[www.webstaurantstore.com]
Victorinox 5" Serrated Chefs Knife:
[www.webstaurantstore.com]
Victorinox 4" Serrated Round Tip Utility Knife:
[www.webstaurantstore.com]
What I have ended up doing if new knives aren't acquired is modifying their current kitchen knives. I thin the blades with a relief grind as much as I can, then plateau sharpen with a coarse (45 mircon) finish, and steel the edge, so it will be durable. I round and blunt the tips of the knives used by children.
The use of Santoku style knifes in all sizes is good also, as it has most of the desired qualities.
I suggest to the owners to steel their knives and show them how to, to keep them in good shape. If the owners of the knives don't own a steel, I show them how to use the back of another knife to keep the blades in working order. When the knives need resharpening, that's where I come in.
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Kotobuki King 250/1000 water stone (3 replies)
Thinking about buying the K-80 version, 8" x 2" x 1" that is 250 on one side and 1000 on the other. It will be my first "water stone". any thoughts or comments or how to tips? using Norton catalog as a reference, seems like coarse side will be similar to a medium India and the fine side close to my smith fine diamond.
just curious how they will work.
I was also told on a cooking forum: [www.cheftalk.com]
"There is a reason why all professional sharpeners use waterstones, simply, they're faster than oilstones. They don't clog and the medium refeshens itself while you sharpen. You can actually get silicon carbide waterstones, but for whatever reason they don't work well. "
just curious how they will work.
I was also told on a cooking forum: [www.cheftalk.com]
"There is a reason why all professional sharpeners use waterstones, simply, they're faster than oilstones. They don't clog and the medium refeshens itself while you sharpen. You can actually get silicon carbide waterstones, but for whatever reason they don't work well. "
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Sharpening Razor (and Utility) Blades Before You Use Them (no replies)
I read this a few years ago (I am a chronic Bladeforums lurker), and ran across it again a few months ago:
[www.bladeforums.com]
Jeff Clark says he sharpens razor blades before using them. I laughed because I do the same thing, as they often can get sharper for a few reasons (burr, different finish and angle). Does anyone else do this? What's your favorite technique or method? I usually either leave it in the holder, and knock off the burr by micro-beveling on whatever medium of fine hard stone is handy (Soft Arkansas, Medium Ceramic and up). Or I put it in the DMT Aligner clamp, take out the guide posts, and then sharpen on a hard, fine-medium, fine, or extra-fine stone. I rarely strop them, except say a thicker utility blade in a Super-Knife style folding utility knife that I EDC, if I am trying for a high push cutting sharpness edge like I have been running and experimenting with as of late.
[www.bladeforums.com]
Jeff Clark says he sharpens razor blades before using them. I laughed because I do the same thing, as they often can get sharper for a few reasons (burr, different finish and angle). Does anyone else do this? What's your favorite technique or method? I usually either leave it in the holder, and knock off the burr by micro-beveling on whatever medium of fine hard stone is handy (Soft Arkansas, Medium Ceramic and up). Or I put it in the DMT Aligner clamp, take out the guide posts, and then sharpen on a hard, fine-medium, fine, or extra-fine stone. I rarely strop them, except say a thicker utility blade in a Super-Knife style folding utility knife that I EDC, if I am trying for a high push cutting sharpness edge like I have been running and experimenting with as of late.
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Lubricating the Ball Detent (no replies)
I was watching one of Nick Shabazz's disassembly/assembly YouTube video's ( [www.youtube.com] ), and one of the things he does, which I had never seen or tried, was to lubricant the ball detent. I tried it, and it really smoothed up the action on my frame/linerlocks. Doe's anyone else use this method?
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Barbers Hones For Finishing Knives (no replies)
Has anyone tried using old barbers hones (you can get them on eBay for fairly cheap) for finishing knives? They tend to be fairly high grit, with the lower range being 4k-6k, and the higher 8k-10k and the rare, in-demand ones 15k+. They cut quickly, with 5-6 PPS usually recommended for refreshing a razor. Anymore than that results in a wire edge/burr usually. I have half a dozen of these stones, and I don't really find much use for them, as I have newer production stones that seem to work better, and I have found the barbers hones do cut very fast and will leave a wire edge on your freshly sharpened knife, killing any high sharpness it had. Maybe if you inherited, found them at a garage/lawn sale or antique store/flea market, or don't have the finances for a high grit stone, could they be useful for knives? You can see what happens when they are used for knives here: [youtu.be]
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Fixing the Centering on Pocket Knives (no replies)
I have the ESEE Zancudo, it is what I am currently EDC'ing (1/17), and the blade centering is horrible, unless the pivot is super tight, which makes opening the blade virtually impossible. Here's a few fixes that actually work:
Nick Shabazz:
[youtu.be]
From the Benchmade Forums, on centering a Mini-Grip:
[benchmadeforum.com]
Nick Shabazz:
[youtu.be]
From the Benchmade Forums, on centering a Mini-Grip:
[benchmadeforum.com]
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King stone users (2 replies)
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Chisel Sharpening Method (no replies)
I'm not sure how many of you are woodworkers such as I am or what not.
But sharpening woodworking tools is a huge thing just like the knives we love.
I've learned lots in here and from cliff's video's on sharpening and do's and don'ts.
I thought I'd share this fellow here from instagram who made a chisel sharpening video.
[youtu.be]
But sharpening woodworking tools is a huge thing just like the knives we love.
I've learned lots in here and from cliff's video's on sharpening and do's and don'ts.
I thought I'd share this fellow here from instagram who made a chisel sharpening video.
[youtu.be]
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bgentry's "The Seven Secrets of Sharpening" (no replies)
This was on BladeForums:
The Seven Secrets of Sharpening
[www.bladeforums.com]
Looks like some good basics.
The Seven Secrets of Sharpening
[www.bladeforums.com]
Looks like some good basics.
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Yellow Belgium Coticule #7 Bout (no replies)
This stone is from The Superior Shave, who stocks Ardennes Company's Belgium Coticules. This one I believe is from the La Grise vein:
[www.instagram.com]
It is an amazing stone, although somewhat soft (you can scratch it with your fingernail), and leaves an awesome polish. You can use it with oil or water, with slurries varying in thickness, as it changes how the stone behaves. The stone has a great feel, you can tell exactly where you are on it when sharpening, both in angle and sharpness. For finishing, plain water (sometimes this stone autoslurries, so some recommend using under running water) or oil can be used, and the edge really shines after it is stropped on plain linen/canvas and plain leather. This stone leaves an edge that shaves, but doesn't feel like it will cut your skin, similar to a Surgical Black or Translucent Arkansas stone or a Japanese Natural Razor Stone. If you like sharpening challenges, great polishes and great edges, this is a good stone for your sharpening collection. Although these can be spendy, I only paid $27 for what is basically a 1"x6" hone.
Edited for content and spelling
[www.instagram.com]
It is an amazing stone, although somewhat soft (you can scratch it with your fingernail), and leaves an awesome polish. You can use it with oil or water, with slurries varying in thickness, as it changes how the stone behaves. The stone has a great feel, you can tell exactly where you are on it when sharpening, both in angle and sharpness. For finishing, plain water (sometimes this stone autoslurries, so some recommend using under running water) or oil can be used, and the edge really shines after it is stropped on plain linen/canvas and plain leather. This stone leaves an edge that shaves, but doesn't feel like it will cut your skin, similar to a Surgical Black or Translucent Arkansas stone or a Japanese Natural Razor Stone. If you like sharpening challenges, great polishes and great edges, this is a good stone for your sharpening collection. Although these can be spendy, I only paid $27 for what is basically a 1"x6" hone.
Edited for content and spelling
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Arkansas translucent stone (2 replies)
Hello,
Im thinking of buying a translucent ark. I plan on using diamond plates and Norton India stones for the intial sharpening process. I was thinking of using the translucent for the final touches such as micro bevel and deburring. I have a question will this stone handle aka supersteels, in the final finishing process? Ive read that arks will not handle steels with high vanadium content. Im not going to use it to remove high amounts of metal, just finishing.
Thanks,
Shannon
Im thinking of buying a translucent ark. I plan on using diamond plates and Norton India stones for the intial sharpening process. I was thinking of using the translucent for the final touches such as micro bevel and deburring. I have a question will this stone handle aka supersteels, in the final finishing process? Ive read that arks will not handle steels with high vanadium content. Im not going to use it to remove high amounts of metal, just finishing.
Thanks,
Shannon
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Sharpening CPM10v... (a DK video) (5 replies)
I asked DK (knivessavelives) how long it would take him to destress the edge of his Spyderco K2 in 10v, and get it to pushcutting newsprint sharpness. Here was his answer...
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