Once you have gotten the foundations of sharpening down, getting sharp edge is not a hard thing to accomplish, given no complications. However, when you are sharpening for a goal, like with straight razor shaving, you need more than sharp, you need sharp and smooth. This is one thing that I was able to see in person, The Emler Edge, sharpened by Mike Emler of Crazy Sharp. His edge's were sharp and pretty. I think that this is the desired edge for a midtech or custom knife, a mirror edge that still tree-tops hair and still retains slicing aggression. I can get sharp, in fact a high sharpness, but my edges are not always pretty. So how does one go about getting a sharp and pretty edge while retaining slicing aggression? Two answers: Tight grit progressions and making sure you have removed the previous scratch pattern completely. This sounds simpler than it actually is. It basically is polishing, with sharpness thrown in. Mike has video's on YouTube on his grit progressions, the techniques and stones he uses, but like almost anything, having the watched a demonstration and having the same equipment is not the same as being able to do it yourself. Normally, I can get a dull knife to tree-topping in about 5-10 minutes. To get a close to perfect polish on the edge, it takes double, triple, or even more time. So if you have a knife you care about, and want that show edge that is talked about often, feel free to contact Mr. Emler of Crazy Sharp, and get an Emler Edge, it will put a smile on your face. When I get a custom or midtech, I plan on sending it to Mike.
Instructions and materials for getting a freehand convexed polished edge:
Note: The bane of mirror edges is rouge scratches. This is cause by using XC stones, or coated diamond abrasives. Start at a medium grit stone, like a Fine India, Soft Arkansas, Spyderco Medium Ceramic, 800, 1k, or 1.2k Japanese Waterstones.
Materials:
Float glass, marble slab, or flat metal sheet
Wet/Dry SiC Sandpaper in grits P320, 600, 1000, 1500, and either 2000, 2500, or 3000 (whatever is available, I had 2500)
Finishing stone for micro-beveling (I used a Spyderco UF ceramic triangle rod)
Leather strop with compound (Stainless Green, I used Flexcut Gold compound)
Spray bottle of water or window cleaner
Magnifying Glass or Jewelers Loupe
Instructions:
Spray the flat surface with the water bottle until wet, then spray the SiC paper you want to use, front and back.
Press paper to flat surface.
Start on the 600 grit SiC, until the scratch pattern is even and complete. Make sure you keep the paper flat to the flat surface. Change to the 1000 grit SiC .Rotate the knife slightly so you can see a change in the direction of the scratch pattern. Sharpen until the scratch pattern is even and has completely removed the previous scratches. Repeat until you have finished with the 2k/2.5k/3k paper.
Strop edge until desired polish.
Micro-bevel with the finishing stone until desired sharpness is reached (alternating, light, edge leading passes).