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WorkSharp Reveiw (5 replies)

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Pete from Cedric & Ada YouTube channel reviews the basic WorkSharp model:

[youtu.be]

The Ken Onion model with the blade grinding attachment looks like a superior product that made a lot of improvements, but is more expensive.

There are issues, however with using power grinding machines, and they also have there benefits:

[www.spyderco.com]

Burrfection -- The Best Sharpening and Polishing Stones (1 reply)

Office Pantry Knife (4 replies)

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So I put this knife in the office pantry:

[www.victorinox.com]

It has a paper thin stock from 2mm to 1mm near the tip and a full flat grind. I have sharpened this knife at various angles, which at 25-30 dps it held up against young coconut well. The edge wrapped after I reducing the angle to ~17dps and repeatedly opening coconuts. video: [www.youtube.com] (Warning: not English)

Factoring in the usual concern of human operational error, I brought the knife home and worked on it and ground off the bevel, and put ~22 dps on it. I proceeded to put it back to the office pantry. So after around a week I've found that the edge is no longer reliably slicing paper and have dings here and there. I proceeded to get the Dan's EzHone out and repaired it on the medium/fine/extra-fine, which now it slices paper but I did not got the dings out. (No time at work)

I really enjoy the more acute angle but keep touching up the edge pretty annoying for the OCD me. So just for discussion, are there any angle for the edge that could take up abuse well even for such a thin stock? Or shall we just never underestimate the destructive power of human being?

Thanks.

Schrade USA Sharpening Angle (2 replies)

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The Schrade USA (Schrade Imperial) sharpening instructions from 1991 say to sharpen the edge from 10-15 degrees per side. It is a pleasant surprise that a practical angle is (was) stated; not the usual obtuse 22 or 20-30 degrees. The knife that the instructions accompanied is a liner lock folding hunter with a thin edge and a fine point. It has the older brass style liner lock that says "press." The sharpening instructions also state that the edge should be finished on a fine hone after an initial roughing on a coarse stone. The information is simple, yet practical, and almost never seen with modern folders. A possible reason for this is that Schrade produced its own products in-house. A copy editor could actually ask someone a practical question.

The sharpening instructions from Eye Brand (Carl Schlieper) warn: "never sharpen your blade flat as this will ruin your knife and void any warranty." Aside from avoiding superficial scratches, this is a very pessimistic statement. The same instructions say to use a sharpening steel at a high angle (20-30 degrees), this would produce a much poorer edge than flat (or very low angle) grinding.

Daily Kitchen Knife Maintenance (2 replies)

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This is what I use in the kitchen for maintaining my kicthen knives:
[www.instagram.com]

Top to bottom:
12" Forschner Combination Steel
10" Arkansas Sharpeners Superstick
Coarse Grit Smiths Oval Diamond Rod
JA Henckels International Butchers Steel

Daily "Touch Up" Sharpening/Stropping, or "Full" Sharpening, What Do You Prefer? (no replies)

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Discussion:
[www.spyderco.com]

Now I think that you should sharpen when you think that they edge needs it, and you can definitely overwork and fatigue the edge by overstropping or by burnishing.

Using The Sharpmaker Triangle Rods Out Of The Base (no replies)

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For a few reasons, I like using, and not using, the Sharpmaker base.

When I don't use the base, I will put the rods into a Steelex Stone holder, after I had an accidental injury using my hands to hold the Stones (five stitches in my palm).

Using the base, I can pretty much gauge the angle I am at for consistency. Also, it allows you the ability to use very light pressure while still keeping the angle accurate. To me, this is invaluable, especially when working with lower carbide stainless steels with less than ideal heat treatments, hawkbills, recurves, and serrated edges. For me, there is nothing better and no substitute.

For freehanding the stones, the technique Michael Christy uses is awesome:

[youtu.be]

I used to do a similar method, but the stone was sideways and I would lower my head to see the angle, vs raise the stone.

With the stone held freehand, you can easily do more movements, raise the angle for deburring passes, and cross the scratch pattern, along with being able to do short passes. Also, it feel more natural for some reason.

My Two Favorite Finishing Stones (2 replies)

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For EDC and Kitchen knives, I have two favorite sharpening stones to set the apex: My Dan's Primitive 6x3" Black Arkansas True Hard stone, and my Spyderco UF Triangle Rod. For steels at or under 154CM/440C/VG-10 or D2, I like the Dan's Black Ark. Anything like S30V or up in carbide volume, especially with vanadium carbide, I like the Spyderco UF Triangle. The only other stones that I would consider close are the DMT EEF stone and Belgian Coticule.

How To Recommend Sharpening Stones For A Beginner (Or Anyone Else) (4 replies)

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BladeForums Thread:
[www.bladeforums.com]

There is a lot of information, some misinformation, and a lot of opinions that contradict each other.

I would start by classifying the stones into:
1. Gross Material Removal
2. Shaping
3. Preparing The Apex
4. Apexing

Then select stones that can either cut selected steels or all steels. I think this is often emphasized more than needed, as most stones will cut most steels.

Price is another factor. For a cheap setup that can cut most steels, I would select a XC Scythe Stone/Combo Crystolon or India, a King 1k, and for finishing (polished edge) either a pocket Soft/Black/Translucent Arkansas , Spyderco M/F/UF Triangle Rod, DMT EF,EEF, and for a coarse edge, Fine India, C/F DMT.

For a fixed angle setup, the DMT Aligner, the Lansky or Gatco clamp systems if you are on a budget. If you have a little more money to spend, the Spyderco Sharpmaker with CBN or Diamond rods, Edge Pro Apex, KME, or Wicked Edge would be a good choice.

Stropping: Is It Worth The Effort? (3 replies)

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Blade forums Thread:
[www.bladeforums.com]

Is stropping worth the time and effort, along with the chance of ruining your edge? I find light stropping helpful sometimes, but if I don't have to I don't strop at all.

angle tracking while sharpening (6 replies)

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video: [www.youtube.com]

keeps track of the angle while sharpengin. Good way to judge how you're doing/progressing. some interesting potential.

Sharpening Technique Using Diamond Plates And Ceramic Rods (no replies)

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Video:
[youtu.be]

I have been wanting a knife sharpening system that will sharpen all cutlery steels, can be used at home and also be portable, and will allow your to achieve a high sharpness edge easily, and as a bonus, leave an edge close to a mirror polish. Using the Spyderco Sharpmaker with the diamond rods and the UF rods, along with two DMT Diafolds C/F with EF/EEF, plus also EZE-LAP C (220#) and SF (1200#). I find that the WorkSharp Field Sharpener is a great system that has almost everything I would like, but I think that if it used triangle rods instead of round ones, along with a better option for the medium ceramic grit, it would be perfect.

The technique I have found that works best for me when using only diamond and ceramic hones is this:

If the blade needs to be repaired because of chips or it is being reprofiled, start with the #220 diamond.

Otherwise, start with the #325 DMT, #400 Diamond Spyderco Rods if the edge is very dull (won't slice printer paper). If it will still slice printer paper, you can use the DMT EF(#1200), EZE-LAP SF(#1200) or Spyderco M rods.

1) Lightly slice into the stone two or three times to cut off any fatigued metal and give yourself a cue for when you are close to apexing.

2) Place the blade on the stone and match the edge angle to the stone. If re-profiling, place the blade at the angle you want to re-profile at. Apply water, soap and water, or oil as a lubricant.

3) Use very light pressure and either scrubbing passes or full length passes on the stone, one per side, and check the edge. Do this until the light no longer reflects off the were the apex of the knife is by looking at it straight on under light, or use your thumbnail to see if it grabs your nail. This usually happens within five or less passes per side for me, your results might vary. I have found with very light pressure, you can get a better feeling of when the edge is getting closer to apexing, so you don't over grind and form a burr.

4) Use alternating forward leading passes, matching the angle, about five to ten passes per side.

5) Before moving on to the next stone, do one very light high angled forward leading pass on the stone, then do one crossing the scratch pattern. Do this every time before you move onto the next stone.

6) Repeat until the desired grit is reached. Finish with very short passes, along with crossing the scratch pattern.

7) Strop if desired.

If taken up to the Spyderco UF Rods, you should be able to whittle or completely sever a head hair, and slice paper towel, folded and not folded.

Edited for content.

Sharpening To Get To Good Metal (5 replies)

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Two Benchmade's, a S30V 940 Osborne and a 154CM 553 Tanto Griptillian, sharpened until the metal would take a high sharpness:

[www.instagram.com]
[www.instagram.com]
[www.instagram.com]

A lot of material had to be removed, and both knives that had been sharpened a lot were thickly ground.

Using Surgical Black Arkansas Stone After Spyderco UF (no replies)

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I saw Rough Rooster Sharpening on YouTube use a Black Arkanas stone after using a Spyderco UF stone. I usually use one or the other. I tried it and got great results, plus no stropping needed.

DMT Customer Service (2 replies)

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Recently, I noticed that I was losing abrasive on the C/F DMT Diafold that came with my DMT Aligner Kit. Yesterday I sent them this E-Mail:




DMT | Acme United Corporation
Tel: (508) 281-1747 x 747 Fax: (508) 485-3924




-----Original Message-----
From: Jason D. Stone [mailto:info@dmtsharp.com]
Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2018 2:34 PM
To: CC
Subject:

Entry Date: 2018-03-27 03:33 PM
Name: Jason D. Stone
Company: SSEK/Stone Enterprises
Email Address: jasonstone20@yahoo.com

I bought a DMT Diafold Aligner Sharpening Kit about a year ago and the Blue side of the C/F Diafold has lost almost half of is abrasive, and it feels like I am sharpening just on the metal because it slides until it hits the abrasive that remains, at the halfway point down to the handle. I have had other C/Blue DMT sharpeners and haven't had this problem. Feel free to contact me at my email.

This morning, when I checked my E-Mail, this was in the Inbox:

Hello Jason:

I am sorry to hear that there is a problem with the sharpener.

We have placed an order for a replacement for you.

They manufacture the replacements upon order so there is a lead-time. Right now I am not sure how long it will be, but we will ship it out to you as soon as it is ready. Once it is shipped you will receive an email with a tracking number.

Thank you very much.


Cathie O’Donnell
Customer Care

I don't think there is that much more you can ask from a company's Customer Service Department.

The ApostlP Edge Pro Tips And Tricks #6 (no replies)

Nebulax Knife Tune-Up (no replies)

Sapphire Cut Sharpening Steel (no replies)

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I have the Friedrich Dick Sapphire cut 14 inch sharpening steel: video: [www.youtube.com]





The grooves of the steel are very fine and produce a highly polished apex. The cutting ability of the edge produced seems to be similar to the Spyderco fine ceramic (I have the medium, fine, and ultra fine). If the knife edge is dull, the sapphire cut steel will only polish the apex, and not improve the sharpness very much. If the sharpness is near to push-cutting, the sapphire cut will bring it to high push-cutting ability. If the edge has been finished and polished with the ultra fine ceramic, a few pps on the sapphire cut will make it slightly toothy, similar to a DMT XXF.

I wanted to try a high quality, fine grooved sharpening steel and the F. Dick products have an excellent reputation with a 66 HRC. In the video, the presenter describes the sapphire cut as semi-fine. This is probably in comparison to smooth, polished steels since F. Dick describes the sapphire cut as very fine, but more coarse than ultra-fine.

Getting The Most Out Of Hardware Stone Aluminium Oxide Stones (no replies)

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The first full sized bench sized stones I bought (I only had pocket sized stones before that) were cheap 6" Al2O3 hardware store stones, then an 8" Al2O3 Oregon Stone Combination. I couldn't get a shaving sharp edge off either stone, just scrape shaving, moslty skin. This is when I first started really trying to get knives sharp, after reading Wayne Goddards article on knife sharpening in the early 2000's, I think in Blade Magazine. I still can't get a shaving sharp edge off of these stones unless I use edge trailing passes to finish. I did at the time have a Gatco Soft Arkansas Pocket Stone and a DMT 1200 EF credit card sharpener, but it didn't occur to me to combine these with the cheap hardware stone.

ErgoPro Steel (1 reply)

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