This looks like an interesting idea:
[www.spyderco.com]
[www.spyderco.com]
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No Sharpening November (1 reply)
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BladeHQ And Lucas Burnley: How To Maintain A Pocket Knife (1 reply)
Video:
[youtu.be]
[youtu.be]
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Sharpening With Or Without A Micro-bevel (no replies)
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harder water stones (4 replies)
Can some one give my a suggestion for harder water stones. 1-6k range. Nothing super high yet. I've been using a king 220-1k combo stone and Naniwa super-stones recently, but i still prefer using harder oil stones and my Arkansas stones. I was looking at the Imanishi combo stone, but don't see much on it that really helps me decides. Thanks!
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JDavis882 Is Back! (no replies)
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Spyderco Goldenstone: Nick Shabazz Review (1 reply)
Video:
[youtu.be]
Looks like an awesome sharpener. It would be interesting if Spyderco made a pocket version of the Goldenstone, maybe like the Double Stuff 2, but with the Goldenstone shape.
[youtu.be]
Looks like an awesome sharpener. It would be interesting if Spyderco made a pocket version of the Goldenstone, maybe like the Double Stuff 2, but with the Goldenstone shape.
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Interview With TSProf Inventor (no replies)
YouTube:
[youtu.be]
[youtu.be]
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Lubricants For Knife Pivots (13 replies)
There has been a lot of promotion and reviews of lubricants for knife pivots on social media lately. I am not sure that there is much of a difference in what one uses, saying that I haven't used any new products. For food safe, I like petroleum jelly for a grease and mineral oil for an oil. Not food safe I will use white lithium grease for a grease and Militec for an oil.
What do most of you use for your knives?
edit:
PS: How about a rust preventive? I have found that several applications of mineral oil (like a daily oiling for a week) work best for me.
What do most of you use for your knives?
edit:
PS: How about a rust preventive? I have found that several applications of mineral oil (like a daily oiling for a week) work best for me.
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Victorinox Does Not Recommend Steeling (Burnishing) (4 replies)
From SAK Wiki :
Victorinox reports: "After hardening at 1,040 degrees and tempering at 160 degrees, the blades have a hardness of RC 56 (RC = Rockwell C, unit of hardness)."
To resharpen the blades, Victorinox recommends using a honing stone, as the alloy from which the blades are manufactured is too hard for a honing steel.
The martensitic stainless steel alloy used for the cutting blades is optimized for high toughness and corrosion resistance and has a composition of 15% chromium, 0.60% silicon, 0.52% carbon, 0.50% molybdenum, and 0.45% manganese and is designated X55CrMo14 or DIN 1.4110 according to Victorinox. This steel hardness is suitable for practical use and easy resharpening, but less than achieved in stainless steel alloys used for blades optimized for high wear resistance.
Victorinox reports: "After hardening at 1,040 degrees and tempering at 160 degrees, the blades have a hardness of RC 56 (RC = Rockwell C, unit of hardness)."
To resharpen the blades, Victorinox recommends using a honing stone, as the alloy from which the blades are manufactured is too hard for a honing steel.
The martensitic stainless steel alloy used for the cutting blades is optimized for high toughness and corrosion resistance and has a composition of 15% chromium, 0.60% silicon, 0.52% carbon, 0.50% molybdenum, and 0.45% manganese and is designated X55CrMo14 or DIN 1.4110 according to Victorinox. This steel hardness is suitable for practical use and easy resharpening, but less than achieved in stainless steel alloys used for blades optimized for high wear resistance.
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Stropping Vs. Steeling For Burr Removal (no replies)
This poll on the Spyderco Forum got me thinking about ways to remove the burr. The obvious answer is to use either Cliff or Sal's style of sharpening, where a burr isn't purposely formed. So other than that, has anyone found steeling to be anymore effective or give better edges than stropping? I also was thinking about it because of the no steeling policy by Victorinox that we were discussing: [www.cliffstamp.com] and this comment:
Quote
ShaperAndMower
[www.cliffstamp.com]
Hi,
SAKWIKI doesn't list the sources,
but it appears genuine
[www.e-webtechnologies.com]
web.archive.org/web/20051124043639if_/..victorinox.com:80/newsite/downloads/medien_e.pdf
But victorinox still says things like
Quote
To finish resharpening, it is necessary to remove
the wire edge/burr on a clothwheel or with a sharpening steel. If the wire edge/burr is not removed
carefully the sharpness and durability of the cutting edge can be greatly impaired.
Quote
If sharpening on a grinding wheel, always cool with plenty of water to avoid excessive temperatures.
When resharpening with a grinding wheel,
plenty of water must be used to prevent over-
heating or even burning of the blade. Even us-
ing a soft polishing wheel without water, over-
hearing must be avoided, because the structure
is changed and the resistance to corrosion,
hardness and edge retention is reduces.
If the blade locally overheats, the steel will only
expand at these points, which regresses again
on cooling. As a result, stress cracks occur on
parts of the blade that were not overheated.
When in use, the stress cracks on the blade can
subsequently lead to breakage.
[assets.victorinox.com]
[web.archive.org]
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Why Are You Stropping? (2 replies)
This might sound like a silly question for most knife users and knife sharpeners. My point is that before you start stropping, stop and ask you self why you are doing this and if there is a better way to do the same thing. Myself, I strop for a few reasons: burr removal, edge polish, edge refinement, micro-burr removal. If you are using a strop in place of a high grit stone, are the deficits of stropping worth not acquiring a higher grit stone? One can get a fairly high grit stone for not a lot of money, a Spyderco UF is less than $15 USD. Are you deburring? Try light edge leading passes at double the angle. Want polish? Try Flitz, Metal-Glo, or Mothers Mag. Stropping can be a useful tool, but it shouldn't be a crutch for poor technique.
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Wicked Edgo Go (no replies)
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Natural Stones Vs Synthetics For Sharpening (no replies)
BladeForums Thread
I like both, but natural stones have an allure that I cannot explain, and for carbon and low carbide stainless steels they work great.
I like both, but natural stones have an allure that I cannot explain, and for carbon and low carbide stainless steels they work great.
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Matching Steel Type To Abrasive (no replies)
BladeForums Thread
This looks like a good guideline.
Quote
Obsessed with Edges
This is essentially how I segregate things, based on steel type:
Simple carbon or low-alloy stainless (1095, CV, 420HC, 440A, etc):
> For heavier grinding & reprofiling, I prefer aluminum oxide for these, at a minimum, though most anything else will do the job. India stone works very well.
> For finishing, natural (Arkansas) stones or aluminum oxide work very well. The stainless responds well to Fine/EF diamond also, with minimal burring.
Mid- or high-alloy stainless (440C, VG-10, 154CM, ATS-34, D2, ZDP-189, etc) NOT containing much vanadium carbide (below 3%):
> For heavier work, I'd prefer SiC (silicon carbide) or diamond, but decent quality aluminum oxide can work also.
> For finishing these, aluminum oxide of good quality is OK; I prefer diamond for finishing D2 in particular, and maybe ZDP-189 also.
For anything containing 3% or more vanadium (S30V, 90V, etc):
> For heavier grinding, SiC is OK, but I'd prefer diamond.
> For finishing these, diamond does a much better job with the vanadium carbides in these steels, especially at EF or higher finish.
This looks like a good guideline.
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Lapping waterstones for Straight razors (2 replies)
Hello,
I need some of you fellows expertise on lapping waterstones for straight razors I dont have much experience with these type of stones. I just bought a Kuromaku 1.5k, 5k, 8k, and a Naniwa 12k specialty stone. I was doing some research and from what I gather they are not flat from factory, and can't have a fairly rough surface finish. I dunno yet, because I haven't received them yet. I have read also that its some kind a voodoo to lap with sandpaper because of contamination of grit into the stones.
I may be wrong but I believe those expensive diamond plates were over hyped by the Shapton glass, and Naniwa stones. Dont get me wrong one day I hope to get some Atoma plates. Some stone manufacturers say if you lap with sandpapers you will embed grit into the stone, so you have to use diamond. Some manufacturers recommend that you use the steel reference plate with loose SIC grit. I figured loose grit would be more likely to get embedded into the stone, but I have no clue. Right now I can't afford a diamond plate, that will have to be later down the road. So what grit of wet/dry sandpaper do I use to finish each stone? I was going to use 150 grit paper to get them all flat then progress to finer grits on each stone. I do have a 8×3 xxc Dmt that's never been used yet. I've had it for years for the purpose of reprofiling knives.
Another fellow recommended me to use and finish the surface with 220 on the 1.5k, 600 grit on 5k and 8k, and 800 on the 12k. He said that if you lap them crazy fine you will cause the blade to want to stick to the stone. He also said that he couldn't tell any difference in the scratch pattern left on the bevels when viewing on a scope, if you lapped the stones with a more coarse surface. That has me confused a little bit though . He recommended me to finish the 5k and the 8K with the same grit of (400 grit) sandpaper?? Wouldn't that make the 5 and 8k cut about the same?
I did some research on other stones and lapping plates, and the Shapton glass series recommends using their diamond lapping plate for all the grits they offer even the 30k glass stone. I think I read somewhere the plate is around 350-400 grit. So you would lap a 30k stone with a 400 grit diamond plate?? Looks like that would leave a very aggressive scratch pattern on the bevel plain?? I do have experience with vitrified stones like Norton InDIA stones, and if you lap them coarse they will indeed cut coarsely, and if you lap then fine they will cut finer, because they dont shed fresh grit, and they have to be periodically dressed .
On the other hand non-vitrified alum oxide or SIC stones they are not so particular, because they continually shead grit and expose fresh abrasive. Heck I've even took a Norton SIC stone and lapped it on a cinder block with great results, but if you do that with a vitrified stone you will only dull and round if the abrasive cutting points on the stone. My experience i like loose grit on vitrified stones. So how do these waterstones behave compared to what I am familiar with? How and what do I lap, these with? How to recondition/finish/ dress the final surface finish on each stone?
Greatly appreciated!
Mike
I need some of you fellows expertise on lapping waterstones for straight razors I dont have much experience with these type of stones. I just bought a Kuromaku 1.5k, 5k, 8k, and a Naniwa 12k specialty stone. I was doing some research and from what I gather they are not flat from factory, and can't have a fairly rough surface finish. I dunno yet, because I haven't received them yet. I have read also that its some kind a voodoo to lap with sandpaper because of contamination of grit into the stones.
I may be wrong but I believe those expensive diamond plates were over hyped by the Shapton glass, and Naniwa stones. Dont get me wrong one day I hope to get some Atoma plates. Some stone manufacturers say if you lap with sandpapers you will embed grit into the stone, so you have to use diamond. Some manufacturers recommend that you use the steel reference plate with loose SIC grit. I figured loose grit would be more likely to get embedded into the stone, but I have no clue. Right now I can't afford a diamond plate, that will have to be later down the road. So what grit of wet/dry sandpaper do I use to finish each stone? I was going to use 150 grit paper to get them all flat then progress to finer grits on each stone. I do have a 8×3 xxc Dmt that's never been used yet. I've had it for years for the purpose of reprofiling knives.
Another fellow recommended me to use and finish the surface with 220 on the 1.5k, 600 grit on 5k and 8k, and 800 on the 12k. He said that if you lap them crazy fine you will cause the blade to want to stick to the stone. He also said that he couldn't tell any difference in the scratch pattern left on the bevels when viewing on a scope, if you lapped the stones with a more coarse surface. That has me confused a little bit though . He recommended me to finish the 5k and the 8K with the same grit of (400 grit) sandpaper?? Wouldn't that make the 5 and 8k cut about the same?
I did some research on other stones and lapping plates, and the Shapton glass series recommends using their diamond lapping plate for all the grits they offer even the 30k glass stone. I think I read somewhere the plate is around 350-400 grit. So you would lap a 30k stone with a 400 grit diamond plate?? Looks like that would leave a very aggressive scratch pattern on the bevel plain?? I do have experience with vitrified stones like Norton InDIA stones, and if you lap them coarse they will indeed cut coarsely, and if you lap then fine they will cut finer, because they dont shed fresh grit, and they have to be periodically dressed .
On the other hand non-vitrified alum oxide or SIC stones they are not so particular, because they continually shead grit and expose fresh abrasive. Heck I've even took a Norton SIC stone and lapped it on a cinder block with great results, but if you do that with a vitrified stone you will only dull and round if the abrasive cutting points on the stone. My experience i like loose grit on vitrified stones. So how do these waterstones behave compared to what I am familiar with? How and what do I lap, these with? How to recondition/finish/ dress the final surface finish on each stone?
Greatly appreciated!
Mike
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Burnt Steel: Edge Retention Increases With Multiple Sharpenings (2 replies)
Cliff Stamp and Roman Landes have for some time talked about the burnt steel on the edge, and how if you remove it, the knife performance will improve. Here is a series of tests that show that:
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What Is Your Current Favorite Sharpening Setup? (no replies)
I am really like the Japanese waterstones I have. The King 220/1k and Steelex/Woodstock (possible made by Suehiro) 1k/6k, then Spyderco UF. The other setup I like is the DMT Diafolds C,F, EF, EEF, Sypderco Sharpmaker Dia, M, F, UF, and also the Venev diamond waterstone 1200/2000 3u/1u. I also like the Dan's Soft Arkansas and Surgical Black for low carbide stainless and carbon steels. Strops are homemade: Mothers Mag, Portland KnifeHouse Diamond 1u, Maggards CrOx, then denim or canvas and plain leather.
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Optimal Grit Finish For Serrated Edges (2 replies)
I like high polishes (Spyderco UF) on serrated edges, and that has worked the best for me. Has anyone used coarse or medium finishes on serrated edges? What works edge finish works best for serrated edges?
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Making A Custom Spyderco Base And Adjustable Sharpener Patent (3 replies)
[www.spyderco.com]
[patentimages.storage.googleapis.com]
An adjustable Sharpmaker would be the bees knees.
[patentimages.storage.googleapis.com]
An adjustable Sharpmaker would be the bees knees.
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How To - Guided Rod Stropping With Paper Tape (no replies)
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