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Intentionally Dull Knives (2 replies)

December 19, 2017, 9:12 am
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Fellas,

I'm wondering if anyone has done some work with a knife that's been left in an intentionally dull state. Especially with steels in the D2/S30V class and above.

An example of what I mean is this:

- Grind off the apex (cut into the stone a couple times)

- Use whatever stone is the best option for reshaping the edge bevel

- Use a Superstone 400 (or something that is similarly muddy) to finish the edge

- Knife at this point is capable of scrape shaving with a lot of force and slicing newspaper with a lot of draw and at a 45 degree angle

- Leave it like this and see how long it lasts




I'm vaguely remembering that this sort of thing has been discussed at some point before, but I'm not sure what the consensus was. If it's done to a knife that has a moderate to high carbide volume, I would think the knife would remain able to cut most materials for a very long time because of how robust the apex is after the SS 400 stone. I don't think this would be a good thing to do with a low-carbide steel, but for high wear resistance steels it might be a good idea for certain purposes.
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Using Round Rods With The 204 Sharpmaker (no replies)

December 19, 2017, 12:45 pm
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I discovered this by accident:

Sharpmaker Stone Slot [imgur.com]

A 5/8" round rod will fit in the 204 Sharpmaker Stone slot, it has a small hole at the bottom of the triangle rod slot.
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Aloxite aluminum oxide stone (9 replies)

December 26, 2017, 11:43 pm
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Does anyone have any info on a Aloxite aluminum oxide stone. This stone was made by the carborundom company. I won this particular stone from ebay. I wish i new how to post an image on this forum, but i have very limited computer skills.
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Convex stone (?) (3 replies)

December 27, 2017, 7:57 am
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This is from public correspondence (YT comment) :

Quote

I watched a video where dovo sharpens their razors on a convexed hone. In the vid, they use a coticule. But according to the guy who posted it, they have recently switched to Arkansas stone, because it is slower wearing.

Anyhow, I have tried this convexed surface, and in a word? Amazing. Particularly with stones that are prone to glazing, this convex surface is purely, simply, just better than a flat surface for sharpening knives.

1. The surface provides an even amount of bite on all spots, on straight or curved edges.

2. The surface is self-healing. If you create flat or low spots, the edges of this defect become slightly proud, so the most aggressive and fastest wearing spot is the edge around the defect; the defect quickly erodes away from the outside in.

3. Burr formation is reduced and glazing does not occur. I think there's two effects going on. A. There are no flat spots to glaze over and burnish metal B. The continuous curve means only small spots of metal are in contact with the stone, which means there is more room for swarf to form. The stone has room to cut, rather than burnish. And there's room (and high enough contact pressure) for highly worn particles to pop out of the stone.

Anyways, I have a soft ark that glazes quickly. Convexing it has turned it into a champ. I dug out my very first hard ark stone which was long ago relegated to a junk bin for its propensity to glaze. It is now a champ, too. I have slightly convexed trans ark and small ceramic hones, and it is amazing on these stones, too. I am now doing the final honing my straight razor on (a very) slightly convexed ceramic, and? And nothing. It works as good as ever, even on a straight. But no shiny glazed streaks form on the hone.

I am not sure what to make of this at this stage, interesting however.
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Spyderco Sharpmaker - The Ultimate Apex Setter! (no replies)

December 27, 2017, 10:22 am
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The Spyderco Sharpmaker is the best V-Stick/Crock Stick sharpening system I have used, and is arguably the best sharpening system. What I have found that it is unmatched in is the final finishing work, where the apex is set.
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Insane sharpening video (3 replies)

December 30, 2017, 1:58 am
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[youtu.be]
You guys need to check out this video! I thought i would share.
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Using a smooth tungsten carbide rod as a steeling tool (8 replies)

December 31, 2017, 2:16 pm
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This idea of using tungsten as a steel has always peaked my interest. There's alot of tungsten pull through gadgets on the market as sharpeners, but they normally have a sharp angled corner resulting in removing to much metal. I was wondering if a totally smooth round carbide blank would be to aggressive on a knife? Meaning making the edge wavy and causing premature wear, if i use one to do a couple of light steeling passes every so often.
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Sharpening After Stropping (2 replies)

December 31, 2017, 1:35 pm
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When I am having issues getting a high sharpness straight off the stones, if I strop and then do 5 passes per side, 1 elevated pass, then 5 more passes per side, the edge is at a high sharpness. Why does this happen?
Does the 2-10 pps on the strop loaded with abrasive clean up the edge, but not leave it in a keen enough state, and the sharpening after stropping sets a clean edge? Noted, this is usually after NOT cutting off the edge before sharpening or just doing a 'touch up' sharpening.
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Knife Sharpness Degrading In Storage? (3 replies)

January 3, 2018, 2:11 pm
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I recently went to check and compare the sharpness of some of my knifes I have put in a plastic tub a few montha ago to store them. Most were hair-whittling sharp then. Now, not so much. Most of the blades were folders and stainless so this had me puzzled. I did read about this on Spyderco's Forum: [www.spyderco.com] and BladeForums:
[www.bladeforums.com]

Were both carbon steel and stainless steel edges dull over time if not used. Does anyone have or know of a wasy to prove this?

The sharpness is restored with a few passes on a Spyderco UF rod or leather strop.
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Interesting Way To Keep Oil Stones Flat (no replies)

January 3, 2018, 8:18 am
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Video:
[youtu.be]

So when making a box for your oilstone, if you make a wood stopper at each end that is as high as the stone, it keeps you from dishing the stone while sharpening planes, as the whole stone is used.
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The Importance Of A Sharp Knife Tip And How To Maintain One (1 reply)

January 3, 2018, 12:18 pm
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With most sharpening systems, I have found that unless you are very careful, you will dull your tip. To restore it, it takes a little technique. Sharpen from the spine down, and from the right and left side with slightly elevated angle to remove any burr or deformed steel, and form a point. Bill Bagwell has a good technique on YouTube for this: [youtu.be]
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Wayne Goddard And The Aligned Wire Edge (2 replies)

January 9, 2018, 4:00 pm
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Bladeforums discussion:
[www.bladeforums.com]
Quote
Wayne G.
THE WIRE EDGE
It is important to understand the wire edge and how to get it off of the freshly sharpened blade. The wire edge is formed as the two sharpening bevels meet at the edge. What I call a wire is a thin piece of blade material that bends back and forth from the action on the stone. The action on the stone to bring the edge up to sharp does not remove the wire, it creates it. When the wire edge is not lined up the knife will not appear to be as sharp as it could be, yet sufficient material may have already been removed. Since the edge does not feel sharp it is often worked some more on the stone and many knives are worn out prematurely from this overworking. When the wire edge is lined up the blade will appear to be sharp. I refer to this phenomenon as "false sharp". The blade may shave hair and slice paper, but when the edge contacts any type of hard substance the wire edge bends over and the knife will quit cutting. When the wire edge is pulled out in use it leaves micro flats where the steel pulls out. The wire edge must be carefully removed with very light action on the stone.

REMOVING THE WIRE EDGE
You will feel the hook of the wire with a fingernail and it will be on the opposite side from the last stroke on the stone. My way to remove the wire edge is to stroke the edge very lightly on the finish stone at an angle of around 30º. The strokes are alternated from one side to the other and are very light. As the blade is stroked with the light cuts the wire is abraded off, leaving the true sharp edge. It might seem that the steep angle used to get the wire edge off would slow down the cutting ability of the knife. When properly done, not enough material is removed to blunt the edge. With the wire edge removed you will have a true sharp edge and one that will hold an edge up to the full potential of the glade.
It is very easy to lose the sharp cutting angle at the edge when trying to get the wire edge off by buffing or stropping. If you prefer a buffed or stropped edge, take the wire off on the stone, then buff or strop. The angle on the strop or buff is critical, if too steep, the edge gets rounded off and the edge loses its true sharpness.
This applies to hunting and working knives.
Be aware that most cooks and meat cutters work with the wire edge on their knives. The constant steeling keeps the wire lined up and the burnishing effect prolongs use without returning to a stone.
My finish stone is the Norton Fine India (aluminum oxide).

Now, I have seen it several times on forums and YouTube videos stated that if you can whittle or sever a head hair, then the apex is burr-free (as close as possible, depending on how the burr is defined, ie Verehoven's defintion vs excess/unwanted metal on the apex). I have found this to not be true, as a micro-burr will easily whittle or sever head hair. Also, it is often stated that a hair whittling egde only lasts for a few cuts. I think what is happening is that they have an aligned micro-burr, like Wayne Goddard describes. I am trying to figure out a way to detect high sharpness, but excludes the micro-burr or as Wayne Goddard calls 'wire-edge' and a 'false sharp'. The two ways I had in mind to at least remove and pretty much guarantee that you don't have an aligned micro-burr is either to do high-angle passes, the Wayne Goddard/Jeff Clark method, or running the blade across your thumbnail or soft wood and then doing a few passes on the stone. Of course, you can always use burr free sharpening (Cliff Stamp's Three Step Method or Plateau Sharpening Method) in the first place, but it still is helpful to know how to remove or detect and aligned micro-burr.
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Conditioning a Translucent Arkansas (2 replies)

January 11, 2018, 1:58 am
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Hey i need to buy some finer sic powder to condition my translucent arky. Its not really out of flat, but the silica abrasive is worn slick. I just want the original bite back in the stone. I did try a fine Norton sic carbide stone, and it seems to polish my stone further. I would hate to even attempt to use the coarse side of the Norton , because it seems finer that the fine side. So what grit do you recommend to put a matte hazy finish on my arky? I know some guys polish the blacks and translucents to a mirror, but IMO I find that like swapping daylight for dark.
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New to oil stone (4 replies)

January 14, 2018, 3:43 pm
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Hello friends,

I just bought the Dan's EzHone set and it is my first oil stone kit. I proceeded to sharpen my knives no problem.

video: [youtu.be]

But I am really not sure about some aspect of it, please help:

1. How do you condition the stone? Will it be loaded sometime and I need to clean them out? But how?

2. How much oil do I really need? It is very different to water stone.

Please let me know if there are any other thing I need to know. There are a lot of information from unverified sources on the net so I came here as you guys are the best. Thanks!
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Glass lapping plate (3 replies)

January 17, 2018, 8:43 am
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Im curious how long a glass lapping plate will stay true/flat, when using Sic carbide powder? I see that lee valley sells some plastic mylar sheets to coat and protect the glass before lapping. It looks to me those mylar sheets wouldnt last very long, and they are 19.00 for a pack of 3.
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Shapton price cut? (no replies)

January 16, 2018, 6:22 am
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Popular Woodworking blog

According to this post the new distributor to Canada and the US is selling shapton pro stones for less money. $45 usd for Shapton Pro 1000x.
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Flattening & conditioning Norton crystolon stones (2 replies)

January 20, 2018, 5:33 pm
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simple process

I tend to use more the coarse side so medium and fine are most of the time a subject to just a conditioning process

these Crystolon stones are readily friable so no problem with keeping them flat in short time and with minimal effort

piece of glass, three grits of abrasive grain and splash or two of water

from conversations with Cliff on the pages of this forum I have learned that conditioning is something different from flattening and often a vigorous flattening can cause worn abrasive particles on the surface of freshly lapped stone

I did it in the past too often that I like to admit but man must learn from its mistakes.

btw. still love Crystolon stones - great value for the money
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Sharpening serrated blades (no replies)

January 21, 2018, 10:40 am
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My approach on sharpening serrated blades.

Quite easy with reasonably good results, at least for kitchen and probably a few pocket knives (or multi tools ) which are ground with classic, scalloped or wavy type of serrations. Not the sharp type of teeth that cold steel or spyderco use...

I borrowed this image from the INTERNET







for regular x50/x55 CrMoV steel around 55 HRc I found that 600 grit dry/wet sandpaper works well.
you can swapped the black arkansa stone (showed in the video) for any stone that will not grind to mush from the back side and leave harsh scratch pattern.
of course 1000 grit + wet/dry sandpaper on hard flat surface will do the job just fine
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Spyderco medium bench stone (2 replies)

January 28, 2018, 8:11 pm
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This is the first time I am using a Spyderco medium bench stone.
I do not have previous experience with Spyderco's Sharpmaker system.

Although that Spyderco claims that man can use a medium stone for sharpening dull knives I did my homework and at least in theory I was prepared to see slow rate of abrasion, fast load up and many, many passes.

I intend to use mine - for creating micro bevels.

About the stone:
- aluminium oxide;
- very hard;
- absorb minimal amounts of water (almost none);
- does not need to be saturated, or soaked in water;
- does not require oil;
- I use it with water because of my sharpening habits;
- loads up quickly;
- cleaning is something that I will discover how to in the future;
- gives minimal tactile feedback but the audio feedback is little better;
- good consistent quality of the stone without blemishes, cracks, nicely chamfered edges;
- really good packaging and storage box;
- for the price 40-50$ depending the retailer could be more flat - from forum discussions and youtube comments I can make assumption that often comes out of flatt bowed at one side and concave at the other - I presume due to the manufacturing methods. Mine was 0.1-0.2 mm or 0.04-0.08 inches out of flat;





- good dimensions and thickness;
- around 15 microns which is comparable to 1 200 - 1 500 grit japanese wet stone;

more test in the future
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KnifePlanet Waterstone Knife Sharpening Package (1 reply)

January 30, 2018, 9:47 pm
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Peter Nowlan demonstrates these stones:

[youtu.be]

They look like theses stones:

[www.amazon.com]

[www.amazon.com]


Unfortunately the comments are turned off on the video, so you can't ask Peter to ask KnifePlanet.
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