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A Reconsideration of Stropping (2 replies)

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When I was still fairly new to sharpening, I had experimented with stropping using a balsa wood strop pasted with a green aluminium oxide compound. I never got good results from it, and I quickly became familiar with the often complained of issues of stropping leading to a complete loss of slicing aggression, which I understand to be what is meant in general by "killing the edge" "excessive stropping" "overly buffed."

A while back, my interest in re-exploring the topic was piqued by some SEM images produced by the Science of Sharp blog in this post about burr removal. In particular, the idea of Mothers Mag & Aluminium polish on a hanging denim strop producing the pictured apex interested me.

Subsequently, I have tried a variety of stropping compounds and substrates in trying to see what results I could obtain. I've tried Mothers Mag & Aluminium Polish, 0.25, 1.0, 2.0 and 6.0 micron diamond pastes, and 8.0 and 16.0 micron CBN emulsions.

These compounds have been tried on hanging denim, hanging leather, and block mounted leather strops.

My goal was to explore whether pasted strops could make a viable alternative for creating and maintaining micro-bevels on my EDC knives, which I had previously been doing with a Spyderco Sharpmaker with the M or F rods.

In each case, I cut off the previous edge on the knife, and shaped the edge-bevel using a three-step sharpening method approach starting with my Sigma Power Select II 1,000x stone and then refined the edge on my SPS-II 6,000x stone prior to stropping.

I found that I had a much easier time precisely getting the angle I wanted and the contact area I wanted using block backed leather strops. This surprised me, as I had assumed the hanging strops would be easier to use, but I found it very difficult to get any consistency with the hanging strops. Conversely, I've found the leather bench strops fairly easy to use, but I probably have an advantage with that because my edge bevels tend to be fairly wide, making it pretty easy to feel when you are on the correct angle.

Probably the most significant thing I realized was that stropping compounds applied to flexible substrates appear to leave an apex finish much finer than you would expect based on the grit rating. It suddenly occurred to me that it was possible that most of the complaints made about the dangers of excessive stropping could be explained by the use of very fine grit stropping compounds which, after a large number of passes on the strop, were eliminating all the slicing aggression of the apex and leaving a straight-razor like finish.

I tested this idea by moving to coarser and coarser compounds, from 4 to 6 to 8 and ultimately 16 micron, and what I found is that it is possible to generate extreme levels of push-cutting sharpness even with seemingly very coarse stropping compound, and that coarser compounds will not eliminate the slicing aggression of the apex, even after hundreds of passes on the strop.

Some pictures as an example, taken with my cheap 50x optical 5x digital zoom microscope at max zoom:

Spyderco HAP40 Endura with the edge bevel shaped at 1,000 grit (Note; I'd previously been re-flattening the edge bevels on a 240x stone hance the fairly ragged edge-bevel):


Refined to 6,000x. No attempt was made to arrive at a totally clean and straight apex to highlight the effect in subsequent images.


HAP40 Endura after 10pps on leather bench strop pasted with 16.0 micron CBN emulsion:


HAP40 Endura after 30pps on leather bench strop pasted with 16.0 micron CBN emulsion:


As can be seen, the 16.0 micron CBN emulsion on leather forms a clean, burr free apex, and leaves a scratch pattern that looks nothing like what I would have expected from a 16 micron abrasive.

Also unexpected was the extreme level of push-cutting sharpness achievable in this manner. This apex will trivially push-cut newsprint at 90/90/90 across the grain at some distance from the point of hold while still retaining enough slicing aggression to be able to cleanly slice through a whole sheet of paper towel held on both sides of the cut.

I really suspect I could get an apex that would push-cut newsprint at 90/90/90 across the grain off a leather strop pasted with a 20 or 30 micron abrasive, honestly.

Furthermore, I've been EDCing some of my knives sharpened this way and using them as I would when they had been apexed on Spyderco F rods, and the high sharpness edge retention seems subjectively to be noticeably better than what I was getting previously using the ceramic rods. I eventually plan to test that, but for now I feel confident in saying that the high-sharpness edge-retention is certainly not worse than what I am used to.

The ease of touching up the micro-bevel also seems to at least be comparable to what I was getting from using my Spyderco F rods for this purpose, notably, even after a week or two of repeated touch-ups after use, no loss of slicing aggression was noticed. As far as I can tell, I have been totally unable to "kill and edge" this way.

This has all been quite interesting and fun to explore, but it really baffles me that I can find little to no information or exploration of this subject online. It seems as though very few people have seriously explored what levels of push-cutting sharpness are obtainable off of coarse stropping compounds.

DVD Passaround? Sharpening Woodworking Tools (no replies)

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I picked up a copy of Leonard Lee's Sharpening Woodworking Tools DVD on a lark while I was at Lee Valley buying some belts today. I found some helpful things in his book so I thought I'd give this a try. The DVD is well produced for something that was shot in the 1990's. There is a short section on knife sharpening where he goes over some basic things with both stones and a belt sander but there are some fairly in depth sections about sharpening specific woodworking tools. Which is obviously his main interest.

Leevalley

A quick google search didn't turn up any readily available streaming sources for this material. I would be happy to pass it around if anyone else would like to watch it. Like I said, probably most useful to woodworkers or those who might like to learn some techniques for sharpening odd shaped tools.

Post below if you are interested.

Tyrolit 89A FEIN (5 replies)

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Bigger and coarser than the wonderful 89A SUPER 1200 grit

More photos and videos are in the production pipeline.

For now - excellent quality, near perfect flat surfaces, harder than the 1200 grit, does not absorb water









Vintage Stone Identification (17 replies)

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I ended up being given this bunch of stones today and am trying to figure out what they are.





The top one is a slip stone that measures 5"x2" and is about .5" thick at it's largest. The face of it looks like a natural stone to me and might be a mate to the larger one:



The second one has this on one edge and I'm pretty sure it's just a Norton Medium India with a few decent gouges in both faces:




It's the last stone that seems most interesting. It measures 10"x2" but is heavily used and goes from being 0.76" thick at one end to 0.67" thick at the other. I'm not sure if you are suppose to flatten these or not. The wording on the back is hard to make out but what I can read says:

"...are the Genuine WATER-HONE.... throughout (not sure about this word but maybe ?Germany?) ... most incredulous of...?superority?... Be particular to keep them free from Oil and Grease. To give the razor a smooth edge take the small stone......"

Any ideas?

Ideas for modding an oversized machete? (8 replies)

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So I have this big 22" $5 machete that I bought years ago before I knew anything about blades. I used it once, decided it was terrible (too long, too much forward weight, half-ground edge bevel, cheapo plastic handles) and quickly replaced it with a 14" special grade Tramontina from Baryonyx after doing some research.

I came across it the other day and figured it's a big hunk of steel that I should be able to do something interesting with. Initially, I was just going to cut it down to 16" and put a proper edge bevel on it/use it for grinding practice, but now I'm thinking I could cut off the handle and use the unground section to shape a new tang, make my own scales and maybe alter the blade profile.

Here's the beast, ~2mm stock:


It's ultimately up to me to decide what to do, but I'd like to hear some ideas from you guys about how to mod this out into a functional blade. Pretty much anything is on the table, so please throw it out there if you've got something.

I even thought about cutting it into sections to make multiple smaller knives, but since the quality of the steel/HT is dubious, it might work best to keep it as a machete.

Perhaps a happy accident on a broken stone. (3 replies)

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I keep my current use sharpening stones in a 5 gallon bucket to permasoak, and sometimes I will leave one stone while using another sitting on the edge of the bucket. Well this time it bit me, my Norton India combo stone dropped into the bucket and broke my King 1k stone. Leaving me with one 2"x2" stone and about a 5" x 2" stone.

Well this gave me the idea to dry out the smaller stone and permasoak it in mineral oil, and seeing how it behaves.
I just started soaking it after drying it out for a few days, so no data yet, but it should be interesting. After the mineral oil I plan to see if I can strip the oil out and use it again as a waterstone then dry it again and use a different oil. I'm thinking of using denatured alcohol first to try and remove the oil. Just to see the effects on the King resin bond stones.

Any other experiments anyone wants to see after that, or testing on the oil soaked stone?

TYROLIT version of the sharpmaker (4 replies)

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I just found this video

the device looks well build with 3 grits of SiC stone

[www.tyrolitlife.com]

the price (just over 150 euros) is pretty steep especially for the poor EU countries like Bulgaria, but is good to see new product from them



Swatycomet 150/320 SiC sharpening stone from Slovenia (3 replies)

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Another sharpening stone from the good old Europe.

This time - country of origin - Slovenia / [en.wikipedia.org]



manufacturer - SwatyComet - [www.swatycomet.com]

just a quick legend about the markings on the stone















with my old one




after lapping




a short video about flattening and conditioning the new stone:






older videos with use of the stone:






























Easily my most used and probably favourite sharpening stone.


absorb a lot of water and does not hold it (well - the coarse side does not, but the fine side after 10 or 15 minutes of soaking is quite damp - i Think the structure of the 320 side is more closed than the 150 side)
ceramic binder
the 150 side release abrasive easy above 1.5/2 kilograms of force
the 320 side need a little bit more pressure
the 150 side is softer/friable than the 320 side, release abrasive easier
grinds any type of steel from 3Cr13 and 12c27 up to zdp 189, CPM M4, CPM S30V, CPM S110V, D2 etc.

price - here in Bulgaria the equivalent of around 10 US$

Gimme something finer (1 reply)

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Hello, everybody from Germany.

My name is Stephan and I am 42 years old. I have been trying to sharpen my knives for more than 10 years now, but never had any luck. Until I bought a DMT coarse stone and watched and re-watched Cliff's videos.

I can mow get a decent edge on my kitchen knives with the DMT (shaves arm hair no problem, nearly push cutting through newsprint, cuts tomatoes really nicely), BUT the edge is rather coarse for my taste.

So here are my questions:

I can skip the grid progression (that most people think is necessary) and just go to a 3000 or 4000 grid stone to cut my final bevel, is that correct?

what stone in that grid (3k-4k) is a good investment for me? (Shapton glass, Spyderco fine?)

and one more from a friend that now wants to get into sharpening as well, but hesitates to spend the money on the DMT: what is a good coarse waterstone that doesn't break the bank?

Thank you very much in advance for your help!

Stephan

PS: I am really grateful for your work, Cliff, a real revelation.

looking for info on "ever cut" knives (8 replies)

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I have been asked to sharpen one of these. It is extremely gard to grind a 40 grit zirconium belt will not touch it. My XC dmt will cut it but slowly and produced a black slurry that won't come off my hands....
Has anyone used these knives tried to sharpen them or have any idea what they are made of?

It is the santoku pictured here

[www.evercut.fr]

Zero full flat ground ZDP-189 Endura, mistakes were made. (2 replies)

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Well due to insomia I finally finished zero grinding my ZDP-189 Endura 4 with a DMT XC.

I learned a few things.

The distal taper of the blade when zero ground, either due to the stress from grinding or just the nature of the steel, makes the tip unusable brittle, as in it snapped the last millimeter off just from very light pressure from my finger tip when wiping grinding dust off.

Also it took around 5 hours to finish the process, and I had already been doing a little at a time each time I sharpened it, so total time would probably be a full day.

My fingers are still dark from all the muck that came off during the grinding. Gloves are a must next time I do such a thing.
Side note, fingers are sore in spots that kept hitting the stone. So better finger placement is key to not being rubbed raw.

Now to try and get some sleep, and then Thursday I will try actually apexing it. Right now it isn't properly apexed so parts along the edge are either decently sharp or blunted or burred heavily.

Oh and the final thing learned. Do not try zero grinding when sleep deprived and suffering insomnia.

Pocket Stone Sharpening Set Up (no replies)

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Looks like the diamond/sintered ceramic is a popular combination for pocket sharpening kits:

[youtu.be]

I lost it. I can't get a blade to do a true 90 across the grain anymore. (23 replies)

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Okay. I've been having this problem for a couple weeks. I can get a knife to push cut with the grain, but not across the grain anymore.
Thought it was just an off day at first but after trying a few things even going back to the original method I used at first of using a King 1k then 6k, then micro beveling on a spyderco uf.
Nothing has worked. I've rewatched Cliff's original videos that showed me how, and tried to replicated it just like I used to, but now it ain't working.
I've checked to make sure that the paper isn't the issue because I still have one blade that will do it, that isn't a straight razor. Checked stone flatness, going so far as to flatten and clean completely stones before I use them. Backed off on force to as little as I can control. Pulled out the loupes to check the edge.
The one thing I have noticed is slicing aggression is slightly less then normal.
So anyone got any ideas to check. Because I am confused as heck here.

Edge Retention and How You Sharpen (no replies)

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I've been wondering this for some time. There seem to be two main camps of sharpening. One is grit progression with burr minimization, the other focused on high angle passes and not creating a burr intentionally:

[www.bladeforums.com]

I can across this thread while looking into Cliffs work, and specifically Jeff Clark and his advancement of the Wanye Goddard Elevated Pass technique. The grit progression/burr minimization technique also benfits from stropping, while little difference other than visual polish is shown with burr-free sharpening. The other difference between the two is time. You might need 3-5 grit progessions before stropping, with burr minimization, while with burr-free, you can basically finish easily on one stone. My question is how does the edge retention of the burr minimization compared to burr free sharpening, and how exactly does grit progession/burr minimization work? With my EP Clone, I can go through 4-6 stones and 1-2 strops, and get an edge that has no noticeable burr and is about as sharp as I am capable of getting, ie hair whittling, 3*90 phone book paper push cut. But is this edge compromised by the burr formation, and the burr basically being the edge? Nevermind the stropping? Or is the light pressure from the EP Clone and angle accuracy offset or negate this?

4x1x3/8" (100x25x10mm) Cheap Hardware Combination Stone (no replies)

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Just saw this for the price of a regular cheap hardware stone ~$2-3, and had to pick one up, as I like cheap stones, pocket stones, and the utility of the cheap hardware stones. I was a little disappointed as it is only 3/8" thick (10mm), but after using it, it didn't shed large amounts of grit like some of the stones I have used, about the same as the Norton Crystolon stones (and the 6" SiC Economy I have). Sharpness on the Wahoo Killer was decent, newsprint/phonebook slicing, and went easily to push cutting with microbeveling on a medium ceramic rod. Cutting speed was what you would expect from a AlO stone of this type for both sides, which means pretty fast: On the coarse side, after the apex was cut off, the edge was shaped in about 20 pps (10 sec) and the apex was set using alternating passes, 5 pps (5 sec) using around 1-5 lbs of pressure. Came decently flat on both sides, with only a 1/4"x 1/2" depression on the coarse side, and two smal 1/8"x 1/2" depressions and the two ends of the fine side. Flattend %90 of both sides in 10 sec each using a larger hardware stone with a hard bond, and then conditioned with the TASK Garden hone (2 sec per side). Thia stones bond seems to be on the softer side, but on the firmer side of the soft bond scale. Grit estimation for the coarse side is 150-250#, while the Fine side is 250-350#.

Sharpening Possibly Damaged Steel (16 replies)

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I have two knives, (three actually but that one stabilized finally after a few sharpenings) all from Benchmade, that grind easily, burr easily, and are very difficult to apex. I can get them to shave, but only easily with the Norton Economy 6" SiC. Everything else just doesn't seem to work. Ironically, these three knives are the ones I first learned to sharpen some 20 years ago, and they still give me fits after I have increased my skills, experience and knowledge. The edge will readily burr while still reflecting light on the apex. I tried the King 1k on both, it helped reduce burring, but I only can apex on the Norton Economy. Any ideas?


PS: The steels are 154CM, 440C, and ATS-34. I thought it was the steel I had problems sharpening, but I have other Benchmades and other knives in those steels and the sharpen just fine.

6" Diamond Combination Hone M/F (300#/600#) (no replies)

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I bought one of these listed as cosmetically damaged for half the price list here:

[pages.ebay.com]

Nice hone, performing so far like an EzeLap/Smiths/Lansky diamond hone. Great for lapping resin bond stones and conditioning other hones.

New Worksharp (no replies)

Norton Crystolon stones - Coarse, Medium & Fine - my impressions and opinion (5 replies)

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These was given to me to check them out and have some sharpening fun.

I know that in this forum there are a few topics about the Crystolon / Norton Economy stones but I think this one can be a blank page where I can write my thoughts and impressions about these stones and how I feel using them in comparison with a few european brands stones.

The first video:





... for now I can say - very different feel than my SwatyComet or Tyrolit SiC stones - the Coarse one release a lot of abrasive with small amount of pressure but is fairly clogged/glazed and has the feeling of much finer than the Medium one leaving finer scratch pattern.

next video - reconditioning all of the stones/sides with proper grit abrasive grain...

Stone choice for flattening (1 reply)

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Hello there, this is my first post yet i lurk around quite often.

I currently use sandpaper (wet or dry SIC 240) and abrasive cloth (120 grit Alox) to flatten and thin out my knives which are mostly Spydies in Vg 10 and S30v (i also have some Zdp, M4, and s90v) however i grew tired of having to replace the abrasive strips that i clamp on a brass plate as they wear fast when i grind vanadium rich steels.

The reason i kept using sandpaper is just because i never ever found a faster method, most of the cheap sharpening stones i tried never shed grit and they wore smooth very fast ( India and Crystolon knock offs with stupid hard binder on the coarse side and the fine side shed grit and dished like crazy...)
There is that old scythe stone which sat 10 + years in my toolbox just because at the time i didnt know how this stone would chew any steel with ease so naturally i finally witnessed how a good grinding stone should behave and decided to ditch the sandpaper totally. Naturally i couldnt find the exact same scythe stone, i bought a few ones just to find that they were totally useless as the binder is very hard and the stone wore smooth when trying to grind a very soft stainless Sabatier ( about 54 Hrc i would guess).

So right now i just want something failsafe, efficient and i dont want to push like a caveman while grinding...
I want the stone to be able to tackle s90v ( it's a Spydie Southfork which i bought 'for the steel' yet i ended up really liking the knife and not the steel nor the thickness and lack of decent distal taper)
Basically i was thinking about a Shapton pro 220 which seems tailored for my needs but i would like to know how many heavy regrinds the stone could handle.
Also i'm pretty much ignorant on japanese waterstones if you know something that would fill my need i'm open to suggestions.

I was also thinking about a Norton Crystolon even if i will have to ramp up the pressure immensely as i understand when planing down a whole blade.
Anyway given they arent really expensive and that they last very long i may end up picking both an India and Crystolon just to get the real deal for once.
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